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The draw knife is a tool that can be used in many ways, for stripping bark from trunks, for trimming and fitting beams or square timbers during renovations, and, not last, as a creative artistic tool in the hands of the wood sculptor. The thickness of the Oxhead blades at the beginning of the bevel is 4 to 4.5 mm, of the Gränsfors blade 5 mm, of the Frost blade 2.5 mm
Some tips on the use and sharpening of drawknives.
Drawknives are so called because they perform their work by being drawn, not pushed through the workpiece, toward the user. Under no circumstances should a drawknife be pushed since this would very likely lead to loss of control over the tool and possibly injury. Should the knife jam in the workpiece, it should never be used as a lever to separate the chip from the work, but should be carefully backed out of the cut.
Because drawknives' handles tend to be get in the way, sharpening is a little trickier than sharpening a plane iron or chisel. We recommend placing and securing the sharpening stone on a surface raised high enough to let the knife's handles hang freely to either side. This will permit free movement of the blade over the stone. To obtain a satisfactory edge on larger drawknives, 1000 - 1200 grit waterstones are sufficient. For an extra-sharp edge, usually only desirable in the smaller knives such as those made by Frost or Veritas, final sharpening with 4000 - 6000 grit waterstones is necessary. A final tip: the harder the wood that is being worked, the greater the blade's cutting angle. For fine work in soft woods, 25 ° or a little less will work well; for coarser, harder wood, angles as great as 35 ° may be used.
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